Just for Moms - Food Page

Family Dining FEB 08
Bleu Boheme
Louise Julig

Bleu Boheme is a restaurant that will remind you that not having a kids' menu can be a virtue. Serving delicious but non-fussy French cuisine with nary a chicken finger in sight, it's perfect for an adult night out.
The decor mixes the Bohemian sensibility of the Left Bank of Paris with French Country style and succeeds in creating an atmosphere that is casual yet sophisticated, although the stone wall motif made the interior a little loud for intimate conversation. There are two main seating areas in addition to a long and friendly-looking bar and outside patio (but no heat lamps), and the vibe is upscale without being pretentious. My husband Jim and I dined there recently on a Saturday evening. I learned that weekend reservations fill up quickly, so reserve a day or two in advance to get the time slot you want. When arriving, allow a few extra minutes in case you need to find street parking, as the lot is a bit tiny for this popular spot. Once inside, the service was prompt and friendly. The two-page menu is split into "La Tradition" and "La Saison," each with a selection of appetizers and entrees. "La Tradition" features traditional dishes such as French Onion Soup, mussels and Boeuf Bourguignon, while the seasonal menu "La Saison" changes twice a year. In addition, there are daily specials.
Jim ordered the pork ossobuco special ($22.50) and a bowl of French onion soup ($7.50) while I decided on the roast halibut fillet from the traditional menu ($20.50) and autumn seasonal salad with fresh greens, shaved fennel, thinly sliced pears, grapes, walnuts, dried cranberries and crumbled Rocquefort with Rocquefort dressing ($7.50).
We asked our server to suggest a light red wine that would complement the pork without overpowering my halibut, and she suggested the Mommessin Beaujolais Nouveau ($36 per bottle), which turned out to be a good choice. The extensive wine list features mostly French wines by the bottle, half bottle or glass, as well as a variety of ap?ritifs, champagnes, ports and beer.
Jim's soup was rich and bursting with caramelized onion flavor, and my salad was a delicate balance of fresh flavors with just the right amount of Rocquefort. The ossobucco was rich and meaty, braised with mushrooms in a hearty, almost glaze-like meat sauce and served alongside mashed potatoes and broccolini. My halibut was moist and flavorful, served over crushed saut?ed potatoes flavored with black olives and shallots, with fresh steamed broccolini on the side. I was in the mood for fish with a good hearty flavor, so the halibut fit the bill perfectly.
After dinner we ordered some coffees and split a warm flourless chocolate cake served with raspberry sorbet ($7.50), which was delicious to the last morsel.
Ideal for a date night or girls' night out, Bleu Boh?me is in the hip neighborhood of Kensington across the street from the classic Ken Theater. So make a night of it and remember what a pleasure good food, good wine, and a movie not made by Disney can be. Bleu Boh?me is located at 4090 Adams Avenue, 619-255-4167, www.bleuboheme.com. Lunch served seven days a week; no dinner service on Mondays.

Louise Julig is a freelance writer from Encinitas with a fondness for things French.