Storm brings rain, high surf to San Diego County

Surf heights could build to 10-12 feet

SAN DIEGO - A storm over the Northeast Pacific Ocean brought scattered showers to parts of San Diego County Saturday, high surf along the beaches and dense fog in the mountains.

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National Weather Service forecasters said a large west-to-northwest swell could generate high surf through Monday. Surf heights could build to 10 feet through Saturday and sets of 12 feet could be possible on points and reefs south of Cardiff-By-The-Sea.

The NWS issued a high surf advisory that will remain in effect until 10 p.m. Sunday.

"High surf and very strong rip currents will result in dangerous swimming conditions at the beaches, especially for inexperienced swimmers," according to an NWS advisory.

10News Weathercaster Robert Santos said the temperature of the water at our local beaches has cooled to the low 60s. The good news is that might be enough to keep the majority of people out of the water and harm’s way. 

“But, those surfers, divers and others who don’t mind swimming in the cool water need to be extra careful during this time. The rip current risk will be very high, especially Friday,” Santos said. “The high surf and rough seas will no doubt attract a lot of spectators to places like the Ocean Beach Pier.  Remember to watch from a safe distance. If you get too close, you can easily get washed out.”

Niko Dalman was out surfing at 7 a.m. on Friday to test the rough waters. 

"I think that all surfers out there can agree with me -- when you see the big waves coming in you just have to get out there," Dalman said. "[You] just do what you can to get out in the water and really enjoy some fun drop-ins. It gets a little scary out there. You’ve got to be able to hold your breath for a little while."

When high tide hit a little after 9 a.m. Friday, rolling waves barreled through the Ocean Beach pier. It created such a spectacle, people poured in to watch.

Stephen Kirkwood has been watching the waves there for the past 35 years. Now, he’s dedicated everyday to it.

"[From] about 5 a.m. to 8 p.m. I’m retired," Kirkwood said. "What's entertaining about today is some of the people are over their skills." 

10News saw a lot of people taking spills off their surfboards.

"We see people digging for clams," Kirkwood added through laughter. "That’s what we call it now. We don’t call it a wipeout -- we call it digging for clams.”

Dalman admitted he did a lot of digging because of the big waves. 

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