Food

A Beautiful Bowl Of Soup

J. Scott Wilson , Food Editor

POSTED: 6:59 pm PDT April 7, 2004

UPDATED: 11:56 am PDT April 7, 2004

Back when I launched this column (along with the rest of the food section) and the Powers That Be told me my celebrity chef was going to be a world-famous vegetarian chef, I was a little nervous. Being a hardcore omnivore myself, I regarded vegetarian cooking as something best left to folks hanging around health food stores smelling faintly of patchouli.

Was I ever wrong. Now, Paulette doesn't cook ONLY vegetarian food. She uses chicken and seafood also, to incredibly good effect. But where I've learned the most from her is in the world of meatless dishes. I am prepared today to tell you, my friends, that it IS possible to make a darned good bowl of chili, yes chili, without a shred of meat.

There. I've said it. I feel better.

Speaking of chili, Paulette has a brand-new cookbook called "A Beautiful Bowl Of Soup." It is a treasure trove of vegetarian recipes that will keep your kitchen fragrant and your tastebuds dancing.

Paulette was kind enough to consent to an interview concerning the new book and various cooking topics in general.

What is the largest misconception you find among the general public about vegetarian diets?

Many people think that vegetarians are unhealthy because proteins and nutrients are lacking from their diets. First of all, it's important to note that a well-thought-out vegetarian diet takes into account alternative sources of protein, contains carbohydrates and some fat, and offers plentiful amounts of all the necessary vitamins.

Also, there are many styles of vegetarian diets. Vegans, for example, avoid all animal-derived foods, including dairy products and eggs. Lacto vegetarians do consume dairy products. Ovo vegetarians consume eggs. And, lacto-ovo vegetarians consume both dairy and eggs. The vegan recipes in "A Beautiful Bowl of Soup" are noted as such.

Quite common are people who, like me, enjoy vegetarian meals much of the time but also eat fish and chicken.

What sets your soup cookbook apart from all the others?

The soups in this cookbook are all meatless and relatively quick to prepare. But what really sets my recipes apart is that I wanted to make the soups both homey and beautiful. So, I've added garnishes and toppings along with most of the soup recipes. Many of these additions add texture as well as color. For example, my Sweet Potato-Ancho Bisque is topped with Apple-Pecan Salsa, which adds crunch to the creamy-textured soup, and Roasted Red Pepper Cream, which offers red color against the orange soup when it is swirled across the top of the soup just before serving. The garnishes and toppings take just a few extra minutes to prepare, but I guarantee they will make your soup meals memorable.

I've also added food quotes throughout the pages of the book, which make for fun reading.

The weather is warming and people are starting to think more in terms of salads and "cool" foods. What can you tell them to get them back to the soup pot?

Soups don't need to be hot. In fact, I've offered a complete chapter of chilled soups, including Chunky Gazpacho and Avocado Soup with Orange Marmalade Chutney. These are great choices when you don't want to stand over a hot stove. And, they can be made ahead in the morning, then refrigerated all day to let the flavors develop.

The last chapter in my cookbook contains dessert soups, like Fresh Pink Peach Soup and Strawberry Bonbon Soup, which also are great on hot days.

Actually, sometimes I like to serve light warm soups in the summer, too. They can be a great way to use the fresh produce of summer and also a tasty way to replenish our liquids.

It's a hot July day. You've got four good friends coming over for a Saturday lunch before a card game. What soup do you make? Why?

I would make Chunky Gazpacho because everyone loves it. The texture is crunchy and I add just enough Tabasco sauce to give it a little kick. I serve the soup in chilled bowls and garnish it with homemade croutons. On the side, I would serve Toasted Pita Triangles (pitas broiled with a topping of Parmesan cheese).

For dieters, it's often good to make soup on the weekend to consume all week. Can you give me five soups that would be good kept in the refrigerator for a week to 10 days?

Many soups actually improve in flavor as they stand in the refrigerator, because this allows the flavors to blend. Soups with dairy products keep less well, so I would choose vegetarian broth-based soups, such as Black Bean Soup, Red Lentil Soup, Moroccan Chickpea Soup. Cashew Chili, and Cashew Carrot Stew. Always refrigerate soup in a tightly covered container and mark it with the date. Be sure to refrigerate any toppings or garnishes separately. You'll find that most of these soups become thicker over time, so just add more water or vegetable stock when reheating, which can be done on the stovetop or in the microwave.

Soup often gets a bad rap as an "all day" undertaking. How long do most of the soups in your book take to prepare?

Vegetarian soups generally take less time than those containing meat because vegetables cook quickly. If you use vegetable stock products (and there are many good ones described in the book) rather than making your stock from scratch, and use canned beans, most of my soups take about half an hour. The only time-consuming recipe is the Pumpkin Stew, yet most of the time is unattended. Most of the chilled soups are simply pureed in the blender, which takes just a few minutes; however most taste best if you plan ahead so they can be refrigerated for an hour or so before serving.

What do you like to serve with your soups?

Some of the light soups work well served solo as a first course before a substantial meal. But many of my favorites make a complete meal in a bowl. All I add is a side-dish salad and bread. The last chapter of my book offers soup accompaniment recipes for Sun-Dried Tomato-Goat Cheese Bruschetta, Rosemary Shortbread, Toasted Pita Triangles, and Cheese Sticks, which are some of my favorites and proven winners among my guests.

Not all areas are yet blessed with the ability to find REALLY good fresh vegetables on demand. Can frozen be substituted in your recipes?

Yes, frozen can be substituted, but the texture will be slightly different than using fresh vegetables. However, vegetables are of little concern in many of the recipes. My pea soup calls for frozen peas, and good-quality canned tomatoes can be substituted for fresh in many recipes. Some of my soups, like Black Bean Soup, call for easy-to-find onions, carrots, and celery paired with canned beans and seasonings. My lentil soup, cashew chili, and corn chowder also call for basic vegetables paired with pantry staples.

You thank your son, Brett, for his taste-testing. When he comes home from school, what's the first "mom soup" he asks for?

Brett has always loved my Cashew Chili and Minestrone, and his new favorite is Pumpkin Stew, which is a special treat on the weekends. He also appreciates when there is a container of soup in the refrigerator. He can quickly ladle out a bowl to make himself a delicious after-school snack

You provide our daily recipes here in the food section. How much work goes into putting those together. Do you go for themes or common ingredients frequently, or try to hit the spectrum?

It's very important to me that my readers will be successful when making my recipes, so much of the time I spend begins with testing the dishes in my kitchen before sitting down at the computer to type recipes. I generally prepare a recipe at least three times before I feel that it has been perfected. Some of the recipes I use are from my cookbooks, others from my cooking classes, and some are developed specifically for the Web sites. Each month, you'll find that I use seasonal ingredients (such as asparagus in the spring and squash in the fall). In the summer, I include picnic foods and ideas for grilling. I also plan for holidays. Around Mother's Day you may find recipes for making breakfast in bed for mom. As Christmas approaches, watch for recipes you can use to make gifts from your kitchen. I include many recipes that are perfect for busy weeknights, and a few that take longer for when time permits. Each week I try to include one special recipe that would be perfect for entertaining.

In addition to the recipes, I always include a tip. I usually pick an ingredient or technique that I explain, just as I would if my readers were attending one of my cooking classes.

What's next for you in culinary exploration?

My role as a cookbook author has led to jobs as a culinary presenter, which is taking me around the world. This past winter, I spent nearly two months in Australia and Asia, which offered lots of inspiration. I just completed my manuscript for "The Spirited Vegetarian." All of the recipes incorporate wine and spirits in the dishes, which add outstanding aromas and flavors, as well as a new dimension to my cooking.

You have done wonderful work exploring ethnic cuisines from around the world. If you had to pick just one country's cuisine to cook, which one would you pick?

I love the variety of flavors represented by the world's cuisines, so this is a difficult question. If I had to pick just one, however, I think it would be Italian. There are so many delicious dishes you can make using juicy tomatoes, fresh basil, aromatic extra-virgin olive oil, and freshly grated aged Parmigiano-Reggiano. It makes me hungry just thinking about it!

And now, from "A Beautiful Bowl Of Soup," a recipe:

Quenelles are dumplings. Here they are made with sherry and figs, which balance the fresh, bright flavors of the juicy tomatoes and fresh-squeezed orange juice. This soup is delicious any time of the year because it can be served warm or chilled. When tomatoes aren't in season, you can use aseptically packaged ones, a better alternative than underripe or flavorless tomatoes.

Fresh Tomato-Orange Soup With Sherry-Fig Quenelles

Makes 4 ½ cups, 4 servings

For the quenelles (Makes 4 quenelles)
4 dried figs, stems removed
1 teaspoon cream sherry
¼ cup crème fraiche
¼ teaspoon sugar

For the soup
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup finely chopped onion
3 pounds (about 6) ripe tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 ½ cups vegetable or chicken stock
Pinch of red pepper flakes, optional
One stem of fresh thyme
One stem of fresh basil
½ cup fresh orange juice
1 tablespoon light brown sugar, or to taste
¼ teaspoon pepper, or to taste
Salt to taste

To make the quenelles: Put the figs in a small saucepan and add enough water to cover. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until softened, about 15 minutes. Drain the figs and coarsely chop. Purée in a food processor with the sherry. Stir in the crème fraiche and sugar. Form into 4 small ovals by using your fingers to press the mixture into a tablespoon.

To make the soup: Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or large pot over medium heat. Add the onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 3 minutes.

Add the tomatoes (with juice) and garlic; continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the stock and the red pepper flakes (if using). Tie the thyme and basil together with a string; immerse in the soup. Reduce the heat; cover and simmer until the onion is very tender, about 15 minutes.

Remove the herbs and discard. Stir in the orange juice, sugar, pepper, and salt. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

Serve in shallow bowls. Place one quenelle in each serving.

Paulette Mitchell, a culinary instructor, television personality, and the author of 10 cookbooks, is known internationally for her quick-to-prepare recipes with a gourmet flair. Her 15-Minute Gourmet cookbook series, including Chicken, Vegetarian, and Noodles, was awarded "Best Cookbook Series in the World" at the 2000 World Cookbook Fair in Périgueux, France in November, 2000. Her Complete Soy Cookbook was named "Best Health Cookbook" at the same event in 1998. To buy Paulette Mitchell's cookbooks, click here.

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